Put Some Mussel into It: Cruising the Canal du Midi with the Barge Athos

Savory, succulent, and unmistakably Mediterranean, the cuisine aboard the Charming-class, 10-passenger barge Athos celebrates the “fruits de mer” of Southern France. 

On the Athos, al fresco luncheons and leisurely dinner parties showcase the culinary riches of the Canal du Midi. Guests can expect platters of just-caught seafood, market-fresh produce, southern seasoning, and easy laughter flowing as freely as the Languedoc‘s wonderful wines.

Each morning, the barge’s Chef stops into the region’s bustling markets and gourmet boutiques, scooping up the Midi’s celebrated seafood — gleaming fish still smelling of the sea, briny oysters from nearby lagoons, and, bien sûr, a French favorite: mussels by the basketful.

On Athos, dining is less about French formality and more about  about Mediterranean merriment — the kind found only where cuisine and company deliciously combine.

Back onboard, these treasures are tossed, steamed, and sizzled alongside seasonal produce and a splash of small-batch spirits, transforming every meal into a culinary celebration of French flavor.

SHELL YEAH! ENJOY MUSSELS ON THE MIDI

Of all the delicacies served aboard, mussels hold a special place in the hearts of the Athos’ crew. Plucked from the nearby Étangs — the saltwater lagoons that stretch along the Languedoc’s coast — mussels are a true taste of the region’s signature salinity.

Best of all, these briny little treasures pair effortlessly with the food-friendly wines of the Canal du Midi, from a chilled glass of crisp Minervois blanc to a sun-kissed rosé.

Dannielle Farrant, the Athos’ co-owner and Barge Manager, says, “Mussels are the taste of the Midi itself — simple, soulful, and meant to be shared with friends and family over a glass of wine.”

Happily for readers of the Barge Lady Blog, the Athos has generously shared their recipe for moules au vin blanc — a rustic yet elegant dish you can easily recreate for an authentic taste of the Midi at home.

ATHOS’ FAVORITE MUSSEL RECIPE

Preparation

1. Clean mussels to perfection:  in addition to de-bearding (pulling the green bit of seaweed off the foot), scrape all the small cockles stuck to the exterior of the shells.  Once this is done, even go so far as “purging” them in loads of fresh water in your sink for a half hour once you’ve cleaned the rubbish off the exterior of the shells.   The cleaner the mussels, the more fresh-tasting the final result.  This is time-consuming but makes the difference between mediocre and fabulous mussels…
2. Use a sufficiently large pot.  The secret to cooking mussels to perfection (once they’re clean!!) is to expose them equally to the steam of the white wine / garlic / shallots / herbs to make them open and infuse them with wine/herb flavors. Go large on the circumference of the pot so that you can turn the mussels over easily and expose them equally to the heat on the bottom of the pot.
3. Sautee finely chopped shallots and crushed garlic in olive oil, add dried herbs and cook until translucent.  Add approximately 3/4 a bottle of wine and allow to boil and reduce to half (the remaining 1/4 bottle is for the chef…).
4. Add the cleaned mussels and cover with a lid. Turn the mussels over with a slotted spoon every minute or two and make sure that as the ones on the bottom begin to open, they’re turned to the top of the pot with the less-cooked ones being forced to the bottom.  Shouldn’t take longer than 8 minutes until the majority of the mussels are cooked.  Don’t overcook (shrivel the mussels) or they’ll go rubbery in texture.  Best-cooked point will be when the majority of the mussels are open and have been turned every minute or two and the lid put back on to keep the steam in.
5. Finish with handfuls of fresh herbs:  basil, parsley, chives really reflect Southern French traditions and flavors, and we like to throw a few de-seeded chopped tomatoes onto the top for colour and acidity!  Serve in large bowls and soak up the juices with crusty bread.