An Encore Cruise on the Athos: Returning to the Canal du Midi is Twice as Nice
A longtime Barge Lady favorite for multi-generational families, easygoing couples, and culinary cruisers, the appealing Athos offers an intimate way to explore and experience the Canal du Midi.
Perfectly attuned to the Canal du Midi’s relaxed rhythms, the 10-guest, Charming class Athos is an ideal choice for casual travelers seeking a deeply pleasurable journey through this enchanting region.
Barge Lady Cruise Correspondent Ginny Blackwell cruised on the Athos in October of 2025, celebrating the boat’s 20th anniversary as a hotel barge. Although she had already cruised on the Athos in 2015, her triumphant return deliciously determined that the Athos’ accommodations, amenities, service, and excursions offer timeless appeal.
Read all about Ginny’s “encore cruise” on the barge Athos!
EXPLORING THE EXTRAORDINARY CANAL DU MIDI
If you’ve ever dreamed of gliding through the picturesque waterways of southern France, sipping wine on the deck of a historic barge, and indulging in gourmet cuisine prepared by a private chef, then a luxury barge cruise might be exactly what you’re looking for.
I’ve spent a good deal of time around the Canal du Midi. Charming towns and villages like Homps, Le Somail, and Capestang abound, each with its own attractions and authenticity. Families walk their children to the local école primaire, stopping afterward at their favorite boulangerie for a pain complet or a croissant. Neighbors linger by the café in the village square, catching up on the latest news.
Since my fractional ownership company, International Property Shares, owns several homes in this corner of the world, I was invited to explore these waterways aboard the Athos barge back in April 2015. It was extraordinary.
Imagine my surprise this past October when John, my husband, and I stopped for lunch in the Narbonne market and ran into longtime Athos crew member, Tour Guide Mathieu, at Chez Babelle Restaurant. What are the odds? I turned to John and said, “You have to cruise on the Athos!”
A week later, after speaking with Barge Lady Cruises, we boarded the barge, joined by two other couples, and set off on a romantic cruise along the historic Canal du Midi.
ALL ABOARD THE ATHOS…AGAIN
Life aboard Athos is pure indulgence. It’s unhurried, epicurean, and filled with the simple pleasures that make your trip unforgettable. From the moment you step aboard the Athos, every detail is handled with care. You’re greeted by the warm, attentive crew and shown to your cabin, complete with fresh flowers, chocolates, and thoughtful touches.
Soon, you’re up on deck with a cocktail in hand, watching the other barges drift by…the perfect start to a week of easy luxury.
The Athos is 30 meters long with five en-suite cabins, a central open dining area/salon with large windows offering plenty of light. It also has a full kitchen, living quarters for the crew, and, of course, the deck, where we lounged about a good deal of time. It sails from its mooring in Argeliers all the way to the oyster beds of Sète on the sparkling Mediterranean.
CHEF EMMA’S SUBLIME FRENCH FARE
Our meals were simply sublime. I was unprepared for how good it was going to be, meal after inspired meal. Part of the French cuisine scene is that they don’t serve overly large portions. Despite the fact that we did have sit-down four-course meals twice a day, I didn’t really feel “stuffed.”
Each meal celebrates southern France with fresh ingredients from local markets, regional wines, and dishes that capture the flavors of the season.
I asked Chef Emma how she kept emerging from the tiny galley with inspired meals, one after another. She just smiled and said, “I don’t really know. I just wake up and head for the market and an idea emerges.”
For a marvelous mussels recipe from the Athos’ galley, click here.
PRIVATE EXCURSIONS WITH TOUR GUIDE MATHIEU
I must admit to being a reluctant tour guide traveler. It conjures up visions of large buses of elderly tourists being shepherded in and out of towns, snapping photos. Not so, not so, not so for our visits!
In our case, Mathieu, our bilingual Tour Guide, was just a hoot. One highlight was a private excursion to the medieval Château of Carcassonne, where he brought history vividly to life before we explored the cobbled streets and charming boutiques on our own.
Thanks to Mathieu, we learned to distinguish Roman from Gothic architecture and, after much prompting, could even remember some of the more important historical players (like Paul Richet, who more or less single-handedly built the Canal du Midi). But there was also plenty of friendly teasing during a neck-and-neck pétanque competition on our final day.
For a video of the indulgent life onboard the Athos, click here.
UNDER CLEAR SOUTHERN SKIES
I don’t want to spoil your trip by revealing all the delightful surprises that await you aboard the Athos, but here are my thoughts, ten years after that first voyage. Was this 2025 trip as good as the one in 2015? Absolutely. The Athos crew continues to deliver the perfect blend of humor, fun, and flawless attention to detail.
2025 was especially meaningful, as the barge celebrated its 20th anniversary, a testament to the passion and dedication that make every cruise special.
Our week ended with a festive Farewell Feast, an evening that showcased our chef’s remarkable talent with an exquisite menu and impeccable presentation. As laughter and conversation lingered over dessert, many of us wandered up to the deck, drawn by the stillness of the night.
Under the clear southern skies, the canal shimmered in the moonlight, peaceful and timeless. I leaned back, smiled, and thought, the Athos has done it again — exceeded every expectation.
For a first-timer’s foray into French barge cruising on the Athos, click here. For a detailed review of the Athos’ Family Fun itinerary, click here. To book your own sailing on the Athos as she glides through the South of France, click here.