It’s an Affair in Auxerre: Dine and Discover in Burgundy’s Unofficial Gateway to Barge Cruising

Welcome to the unofficial gateway city to our most popular cruising region, Burgundy.

According to Penny Liley, owner of Charming class, 12-guest barge Luciole, Auxerre is “…a jewel of the waterways with a skyline to dream about,” and the Barge Ladies agree!

Rising from the banks of the Yonne, Auxerre is the perfect gateway to Burgundy — just a few hours from Paris yet worlds away in spirit. Cobblestoned lanes, half-timbered houses, and wine bars pouring the region’s celebrated Chablis make this riverside jewel irresistible.

For barge guests cruising in Northern Burgundy, the journey begins in central Paris, where a private chauffeur whisks them south through vineyards and countryside until Auxerre’s storied skyline of spires, towers, and red-tiled rooftops emerges into view.

IT’S AN AFFAIR IN AUXERRE…AND YOU’RE INVITED

Playing host throughout history to the likes of Joan of Arc and Napoleon, modern Auxerre is a lively borough with 40,000 residents, an historical ambiance, and a welcoming atmosphere. Boasting one of Northern Burgundy’s most recognizable skylines featuring three major ecclesiastical edifices, including a preserved medieval Cathedral, Auxerre serves as a prestigious mooring for the luxury hotel barges cruising along the River Yonne and Canal du Nivernais.

From Paleolithic cave dwellers to a flourishing Roman outpost by the 3rd century AD, Auxerre’s fortunes have always flowed with the Yonne, its river trade fueling prosperity and prestige. By the early 1900s, the Industrial Revolution had shifted the tide, as railways eclipsed canals and the city’s bustling barge traffic faded into memory. A century later, between 2012 and 2013, the city reimagined its waterfront, successfully transforming empty quays into riverside promenades.

Today, Auxerre’s signature marina welcomes barges, boaters, and boulevardiers alike, its modern facilities now abuzz with community rather than cargo.

FROM AUXERRE’S BEST BOULANGERIE TO THE BREAKFAST TABLE

We caught up with Barge Lady Cruise Correspondent and travel blogger Sapna Dalal, who fondly recalled her debut canal cruise aboard the Charming class 8-guest L’Art de Vivre. A hallmark of the barge experience is savoring regional specialties, and in Northern Burgundy that often means beginning the day with a basket of Auxerre’s irresistible baked goods. Sapna’s favorite breakfast came from famed pâtisserie Eric Roy — praised by Captain Matthew Price as the best boulangerie in town — where the croissants were, in her words, unforgettable.

To this day, she insists they remain among the finest she’s ever tasted. “The flakiest, lightest croissants ever, I wish I could have brought them home with me!” she recalls. “I’ve been spoiled, no croissant will ever compare.”

Equally as memorable that morning were some of the most adorable shortbread cookies in the shape of a pig. “I could not pass up the cookies at breakfast, they were just too cute and as it turns out, absolutely delicious,” Sapna recalls. She suggests also trying any of the lovely terrace cafes throughout Auxerre. “Treat yourself to delicious pastry and a café au lait while taking in the sights and sounds of this charming town,” she suggests.

THE ONLY BARGE OFFERING DINNER ASHORE IN AUXERRE

Other barge cruises in Northern Burgundy view Auxerre’s culture and cuisine through a different lens. The Charming class, 4-guest Randle offers a “Barge and Bistro” experience tailored for true food lovers. At their own expense, guests dine ashore at locally lauded restaurants handpicked by owner-operator Captain Tim Harrold.  From the quay to the table, this culinary journey immerses travelers in authentic Auxerrios dining, where regional flavors and resident sensibilities reign supreme.

“Burgundy is famous for its cuisine, and what better way for my guests to enjoy it than by dining at one of the excellent restaurants in town,” says Captain Tim.

One such gem is La P’tite Beursaude, celebrated for homestyle Burgundian fare and specialties such as œufs en meurette — poached eggs in a rich red wine sauce — that have won heartfelt praise from both regulars and visitors. The Randle is the only barge in Northern Burgundy to offer dinner ashore in Auxerre, making this singular evening not just a meal but a dining experience where the area’s signature flavors are savored at the heart of its heritage.

With so many of Northern Burgundy’s barge cruises gliding in and out of its marina, stepping ashore to dine and discover in Auxerre feels effortless. Best of all, there’s an excursion into Auxerre itself. Your Tour Guide introduces the towering cathedrals and ancient abbeys revealing the city’s spiritual grandeur; for those interested in more contemporary pleasures, charming avenues beckon with chic boutiques, gourmet shops, and cozy cafés.

It’s an affair in Auxerre, and the best ticket to the floating “fête” is on a barge cruise!

Read Barge Lady Cruise Correspondent Sapna Dalal’s first-hand account of the gourmet vegetarian cuisine on which she feasted while aboard the barge L’Art de Vivre here. Enjoy Barge Lady Cruise Correspondent Ashley Hutchinson’s photographs  while cruising aboard the barge L’Art de Vivre here. Interested in additional insight and information about the barges Luciole, L’Art de Vivre, Randle,  as well as other barging options within Northern Burgundy? Click here.